Shaker Wall Cabinet

A simple shaker style wall cabinet with hanging pegs.




Wood Selection, Milling Wood

Carcase Assembly

Sanding, Finish Application

Hanging the Final Product



This desing is something a variant of the Byrdcliffe cabinet reproductions that I made in poplar...


The design is meant to hang on the wall in Silas' particular, the top of the cabinet will hold a Lego creation that is too large to go on the corner shelf.



Wood Selection, Milling



I purchased some 4/4 poplar stock from Larry at Heartwood in Star, MS.

Boards were 7+ inches wide and 10 feet long.

They surface planed both sides of the boards to 7/8 inch thick and jointed an edge.

Cindy and I cut the boards into 6 foot and 4 foot sections in the garage...

In the shop, further rough milling was done at the MFT3 table and the P66...
Oversized blanks are still fat...wood is ready to be planed to 3/4 and worked to final dimensions.

Then we set up the Freud stack dado set to cut a 3/4" wide dado at 1/4" depth.

The crosscut was made with Incra mitre gauge with a sacrificial fence and stop.


These were made for the shelf grooves and the middle support grooves.
The end boards got a 1/4 x 3/4 rebate...cross cut these rebates with the Incra and a PM66 sacrificial fence.
Rip cuts for the rebates were indexed against the sacrificial fence.
End boards with grooves and rebates...
Top and bottom boards with grooves and rebates.

The 7 slats for the rear were ripped to 6 inches...this will result in a show of 5 3/4 inches and a tongue that will project 1/4 inch.

We used a Sommerfeld matched v-cut tongue and groove router bit set...

Routing the tongue plus a chamfer...on six slats.

Routing the groove plus a chamfer...on six slats.

Five of the slats have both a tongue side and a groove side.

Carcase Assembly

The inside surfaces of the carcase elements were sanded and finished with shellac prior to glue up.

James and I started the glue up with the shelf, with the board fitting into the two cross grooves.

This section was then clamped.

Rear view of the carcase frame with the rebates...


After the rear slats were sanded and had shellac on the show faces, they were dry fit into the rebates on the back edge of the carcase.

I used the thickness of rulers as a spacer...

I switched to washers as spacers...
Six slats go in as full units...the final slat will be about 1/2 the size of the others...after the dry fit I marked out the width of the final 1/2 slat...3 1/4 inches...

Ripped the board to that size and attempted to dry fit it...a skosh too wide...ripped off a 1/32 and it dropped in.





Taped off the dry-fit panels to maintain the spacing...
...and checked out the look on the show side.

To secure the slats, we began with a full piece on the right end of rear of the carcase. We glued the end edge only and secured with 18g brads 1-1/4 inch.

The left edge of the slat was free to expand.

We continued to add slats properly spaced...

After all slats were in...with the 1/2 slat on the left end glue and naile, all of the properly spaced slats got a brad in the center of the board at the top and bottom and with a #6 1-1/4 screw into the back edge of the shelf.

The tongue and groove spacing will accomodate the expansion and contraction of the slats.

Additionally, to further secure the two end slats, which will be the slats through which the mounting screws will go into the wall studs...we added a #6 1-1/4 screw from the top into the slat.
To further solidify the top and bottom joints to the side of the carcase we drilled centered 1-1/4 inch deep dowel holes...
...prepped 2" long 1/4 inch poplar dowels...
pounded them into the holes with a little glue...will flush cut.
Sanding, Finish Application
Prior to carase assembly, the interior surfaces were sanded with Rotex 150mm with a grit progression of 120x-220x-400x.

I padded on three coats of made with BT&C Amber flakes and Everclear 190 proof alcohol.

Board locations that would be glued were taped off so that shellac would not affect the glue joint.

The slats got the same treatment protocols...3 grits sanding and 3 coast of shellac.
The carcase was sanded at 150x, 220x, and 400x...
...and three coats of 2 lb. amber shellac was padded on.
All of the front edges were sanded by hand and then three coated with amber shellac...padded on.
Hanging the Final Product

Screw holes were put throught the 3/4 stock on the backside...these were 32 inches apart to go into the studs.

From the interior, the holes were countersunk and prepped for #10 x 2.5 inch square drive screws.

After everything was prepped I got up onto the desk top...the first order of business is to verify alignment of the first screw...from above I rechecked the stud location and then lined up my marks



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