Cypress Vanity Base Project

 

Design
It will be similar in style to the base I made for my daughter.

The base unit will be a simple shell...with 1 1/4 inch square legs...and 4.5 inch aprons (3/4 inch thick).

Legs will join the aprons with mortise and tenon joints...they will be secured with glue and drawbore pins.

This is the Sketchup top view of the vanity top.

It is 31 inches wide with a depth of 19 inches.

There will be a splash that runs the 31 inches at the back. It is 7/8 inch thick.

This is the underside view of the vanity top.

 

The vanity top unit in the shop...
There will be a lower shelf...these boards will be 3/4 inches thick...routed to v-tongue and grooves...
The slats will fit into a front and back rail that has a dado ledge to accomodate them.
Closer view of the ledge with a 3/4 inch dado.

The 7 slats for the lower shelf were ripped to 5.5 inches...then used a Sommerfeld matched v-cut tongue and groove router bit set...

 

Wood Selection and Milling

 

I secured three cypress boards...4/4 stock (squared 3S down to 3/4 inch...and a rough 8/4 slab...from Larry at Heartwood in Star, MS.

Boards were ~6 inches wide and ~8 feet long.

Slab, I jointed a face and an edge to get a square edge.
Ripped the board down at the band saw...and chopped them to workable lengths...
The leg blanks ready for the first cuts...
Edge jointed and faced at the jointer, then surface planed to 1.25 x 1.25 inches...legs were arranged for appearance and marked for easy reference...

Mortises were laid out...1/4 inch by 3.5 inches. The two mortises will meet and will require the tenons to be mitered.

The mortises were chiseled on the dedicated PM bench unit with a 1/4 inch mortise drill bit...to a depth of 3/4 inches.

Clean up work on the mortises was done with abench chisel, a mortise chisel and a Henry Taylor swan-neck mortise.

The four legs joinery milling is done...
Prepped for the the heavy duty leg levelers from Wynn Works...
Marked centers in bottom of legs...this end grain of the cypress will not work cleanly...it is very crumbly...
Put the four legs in the workbench end vise...this made them stable and they supported each other...Countersunk with 7/8 inch Forstner to a depth of 1/8 inch for the t-nut...
...and then each center was drilled with 7/16 inch brad bit to a depth of ~3/4 inch to accept the female threaded shaft of the t-nut and the inserted male shaft of the leveling leg.
T-nut carefully countersunk...
Installed leg levelers...
Making tenons on the aprons...using the tenon jig on the PM66 with the Infinity 1/4 inch thick flat top blade.
The front and the side aprons are run twice through the P66 to create a slightly fat ~1/4 inch thick tenon with 3/4 inch cheeks and shoulders...

The rear apron was redesigned to be only 1/2 inch thick to make it easier to deal with the plumbing between the apron and the lavatory bowl.

The board is the same length as the show face of the front apron. The rear apron will not have mortise and tenon joinery...it will utilize pocket screws.

Tenon shoulder layout was ticked at the mortise and then marked out...
Cuts made with BA small tenon saw, apron held in Moxon2.
Fit adjustment was made in the mortise with chisels...
...and on the shoulders with the large LN shoulder plane.
example of the mitre cut...
...all of the joints had a final dry fit
..prior to gluing, show surfaces are ready to sand..Rotex 150 with a grit progression of 120x, 220x to 400x.
...then a coat of rub on varnish and on to assembly.
Assembly of the Carcase
The side apron mortises were joined to the side tenons with glue and clamped...
Holes were drilled for the dowels...these were not true drawbore pins...holes were straight line drilled with pressure applied with clamps.
The rear apron is pocket screwed with Kregs, no glue...
 
Dowel pins were sawn flush...carcase then sanded

The shelves will sit in brackets...the top edge is at 10 inches up the legs.

 
The brackets were ripped from a 8/4 slab...the board is 1 inch wide by 1 1/8 inch tall...then had a 3/4 inch dado put in to a depth of 3/8 inches.
 
A face was marked off and cut with carcase saw...
 
The shelf boards have a v-tongue and groove...I knocked off the thickness of the tongues with a shoulder plane...a couple of runs on each side of the tongue...
Chopped to length, the ledger boards were laid out to fit around the legs...this joint is a single-rabbet...
 
Cut with the Bad Axe small tenon...Cut like you would a tenon...at the Moxon2...  
The boards were ripped to...they lay free floating in the dados...only the two end boards are secured...screw put into the middle of the board.
 
Ledgers installed...Fit and screwed into place...  
Test layout of slats...outer edges of the outermost boards are square cut and then chamfered...
After three coats of rub on varnish mix...
 
Right edge chisel out to hide the metal pieces...
Installation and Final Product
Attached ~1/2 inch plywood spacers to create a pad through which to screw the back apron to wall studs...
Installed...
 
Top adhered
 
back splash adhered

 

 

 

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