Taper Jig


A future project (a cherry Shaker style side table) will have tapered legs...so I decided to build a jig to improve my ability to taper on the table saw.

I have an old metal taper jig that I never really cared for...and I wanted some extra safety.


Here is my Sketchup design of the taper jig.

The materials will all be wood or jig parts left around the shop.

My inspiration for this design was the fact that I had a couple of Bessey toggle clamps that I wanted to put to use and I had read a very good article online that included the jig shown to the right.


The sled will be a 11 1/4 wide by 30 inch piece of melamine particle board.

The two clamps are screwed to 3/4 Baltic birch plywood...the hole will accomodate the 5/16-18 T-bolt that will thread into a 5 star knob.


The two clamp assemblies...

I cut a 24 inch run of mini track down to three pieces @ 8 inches.


The mini-track is 3/4 wide and 3/8 inch deep. It is designed to handle the flat head of a 5/16-18 T-bolt or the full bolt head of a 1/4-20 bolt.

I will be using 5/16 flat head T-bolts because I had a number of turn knobs in the 5/16-18 thread.


The three grooves were with made with the router on MFT3 table.

I used contact cement to secure the t-tracks into the slots. Here I mounted some screws into scrap wood and slid the tracks onto them while I put on the cement.


Since the aluminum t-tracks were cemented to strand board, I was concerned that the stress on the tracks during clamping would be too much to hold...so I put some small pan head #4 x 3/8 inch screws that were small enough that the bolts could pass over them.
All three tracks installed and bolts put in...
I put slots in the taper alignment board to allow for easy angle adjustments... I used T handles with extra washers.
Here the jig gets a test fit...the sled goes against the fence...the taper angle is set with the angle alignment board and the piece to be milled is secured with the Bessey toggle clamps and/or other hold downs...

The front edge mark is set at the blade and rear edge is set on the edge of the sled.

This allows for a safe taper cutting and easily repeatable tapers for the legs on my upcoming project.


The rear stop is made of oak cut from an old chair leg.

The cuts were made with a tenon saw.








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