Staked Leg Sawbench

Looking to make some staked furniture...with legs that involve tapered tenons and tapered mortises.
My first attempt will be a sawbench...
The design is similar to the sawbench shown below but this prototype will be made from treated pine in the lumber pile.

The designs are based on the readings and plans from Chapter 4 of The Anarchist's Design Book by Christopher Schwarz.

Skill building for this project involved learning to drill pilot holes at a 15 angle. 
Having trying a number of different methods I settled on using a hand held power drill with a Wood Owl bit using a shop built an angle guide.

15 accuracy will be achieved by using this shop built guide.

Then a hand bored tapered hole will be made using the pilot hole as a guide. 

The taper tool will be the Veritas Pro Taper Reamer.
Pro Taper Reamer
Manual for the reamer.
 The reamer is set at 12.8 and is the complement of the
Veritas Tapered Tenon Cutters
Tapered Tenon Cutters
 Manual for the tenon cutters.
Design, Materials, and Milling
For this prototype, I will use the resultant angle of 15 and  dimensions  similar to those given by Schwarz in Ch. 4
My top slab will be 2.65 inches thick x 7 1/16 inches wide
by 19 3/16 inches long.

The legs will be 1.25 inch square instead of 1.75 but this is the size stock I have available.

Layout of the top slab

Due to pandemic lock down, I do not have access to many wood choices right now. The woods that I will look to in the future will include white oak, poplar, ash.
I had a 2 x 8 treated board that had dried in the rafters...jointed it and planed it and came up with slabs that were ~1 3/8 thick...glued up two pieces to make milled top blank of ~10/4 stock.

Legs will be approximately 1.25 x 1.25 stock...I made extras for CTDs.
Slab and leg milled stock shown.

Layout on Underside of Top

Drilling and Tapering of Mortises

After marking out the locations of the mortises, the sight lines were marked off (64).

The Starett protractor head on the 24 inch rule
was perfect for this task.

The resultant angle for all four legs will be 15 along the sightlines.
Jig is lined up and secured at bench...sacrificial board to help with spelching...hole aligned with open vise.

Alignment at the front of the jig...used a longer hold down...issue with surface mating...

Second hole...bit slightly screwed into layout hole...

Then the jig is lowered to surface and secured...

First two holes...alignment is decent...

Then there is a total failure of the jig...on hole three I believe that I tilted the bit, reamed one edge, and changed the jig angle.
I did not realize it at the time...I moved on to hole four...halfway through the slab I saw that the front hold down had slipped and the jig had moved.  I tried to recover and only made things worse...both in the work piece and in the angle of the jig.
A major problem with the bit in the jig concept is that you can not check yourself periodically and make adjustments.  You have to depend on the jig to guide you and if there is a small problem there is no way to set things right.

So, I will toss the jig and ...I will abandon the shop built angle guide idea, and I will bore the 15 pilot holes using the angle gauge to guide me.
Also, the slab is a loss...I cut off the two ends and will use the short slab as a CTD.



Test results







Return to Shop Index