Paring Chisel Rack


After purchasing a set of paring chisels I needed a rack that would allow me to move these chisels easily around the shop.

It had to hold six paring chisels. Four of them are long blade thin paring chisels from Blue Spruce Toolworks. There are also two Japanese chisels from Master Nishiki. They are of the Kinari style and have long Red Oak handles.

All six of the chisels would sit down nicely in a 11/16 hole and then rest on their beveled bolsters. The two smallest (1/4 and 1/2) fit nicely into the hole...but I had to make slots for the blades on the 3/4 inch and one inch Blue Spruce chisels and on the ~30 mm and ~42 mm Japanese chisels.

The Blue Spruce style...long thin beveled blade, African Blackwood handles.


The Nishiki Kinari paring blade type...shorter, thicker blade (folded in the Japanese style), longer Red Oak handles...



As is typical, the project wood was laying around the shop and had been secured by recycling.

The support pieces and cross pieces were an unknown wood that came from the cutoffs of a remodel job. My wife's brother, Rusty, brought me a pile of wood and they were in it. I believe it to be a species of ash.

The end pieces are Honduran mahogany...more of the recycled wood from paneling pulled from my wife's aunt's home.

The pieces below have all been milled and are ready for assembly.

The first step was to take a piece of ash and make the holes for the chisels. This was done with a 11/16 Forstner bit for the large hole and lipped brad bits for the smaller side holes... then chisels were used to pare out a groove to accept the blade width.

Most of the joinery was to be Domino machined mortise and tenon.

The ends of the cross pieces were milled in this manner on the MFT3 table.


To mill the mortises in the sides of the feet supports the feet were held upright in a clamp and secured to the MFT3 table.
This is how the base assembly went together using glue and mortise and tenons.

The outer uprights will have through mortise and tenons.
The base assembly was clamped to the MFT3 to make the through mortise cuts on the outside panels.
Here the dry-fitted unit is clamped to the table and the through-mortises are cut.

They went deep enough to allow a Domino tenon to be seated with a little bit proud on the outside.

Unit glued and clamped.


After glue had set up, the exposed tenons were trimmed off with a Veritas fine tooth back saw.
The remainder of the exposed tenon was then pared down with the Nishiki Kinari.


After a quick coating of my BLT rub, the unit was ready for use.

The end view...

After we built the larger workbench I wanted the paring chisels to hang on the I notched a 45° slot into the back of the rack and hung it on a French cleat.






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