Jewelry Cabinet


This cabinet is to be used by Cindy to hold jewelry.

It will sit next to the side table in the master bedroom.

The cabinet and base will be Shaker style in appearance.


Wood Selection and Primary Milling

Raised Panel Construction

Top with Raised Panel Edging

Carcase Joinery


Surface Prep and Finish Application

Final Product



Some Sketchup design looks...

The cabinet will have 5 drawers. Each drawer front is 3 inches high and 15.25 inches wide.

Drawer blades will be 1/2 inch. They will be let into the side panels in 1/4 inch dados.




The sides of cabinet will be Shaker style raised panels...the rails and stiles will be two inch...with coped joinery.
The raised panels will be 22.5° with 7/32 edges that will be let into the rails and stiles into 7/16 grooves.
Side panel...full view...

The top will be made from a glued up panel...there will be a 3/8 lip with a 25° bevelled edge to emulate the raised side panel angles.

The top will have 1/8 inch shadow lines at the juncture with the cabinet carcase.

There will be a base for the cabinets so that the cabinet is high enough for use while standing.

The base will elevate the cabinet about 21 inches.

The base will be constructed in maple. The top will be the look will be something like this...

Wood Selection and Primary Milling


Cindy and I were at Picken's Hardwoods to buy cherry for her cabinet.

After she saw some milled Padauk in the showroom she wanted to change to this wood.

This is African Padauk, Pterocarpus soyauxii, which when freshly cut is a very bright red/orange.

After exposure to sunlight and aging it turns to a darker brown.

Glues well, finishes well, but care must be taken with dust.

The padauk was purchased in two slabs of 4/4 lumber, about 9 inches wide and 84 inches long.

After a design change and a rough layout, it was determined that I needed another back to Picken's...

The full complement of padauk...
Ready for jointing...
Cindy and I wore masks to keep down dust dust is very fine particles...
James and I took the padauk to the planer...
And then double checked that one edge was squared...
All the padauk, surfaced, ready for the next cuts...

The base of the cabinet will be made from maple...both the legs and the aprons.

The sides of the upper cabinet drawers will be 1/2 inch thick by 3 inch maple.

There were numerous maple cutoffs around the shop and I had an 8/4 slab in the attic.

All this maple came from Picken's.

Oops...the slab above turned out to be oak...I had to go back to Picken's for some 8/4 maple...turns out they only had one overly huge, wide slab and a poor, pitiful wonky 12 foot board. It was so ugly, they made a deal on it and I felt like I could get the legs out of it, no problem. Got some 4/4 for the aprons as well.
At the bandsaw, I sliced the outer edges to get decent grain pattern for the leg blanks...and then I jointed two sides to get a square edge. Each blank will yield two legs.
These blanks for the aprons were 4/4+ and were jointed and planed to 3/4 inch.
A number of maple off cuts were resawn, jointed and planed to 1/2 inch thick for the drawer sides...these boards will yield 10 inch x 3 inch blanks for two sides x 5 drawers.
Secondary woods for the runners in the drawer frame system...will be 1/2 inch oak, I bought these 5 pre-milled 2 foot long runs at Lowe's.
The rear of the cabinet will be a piece of 1/2 inch Baltic birch ply. The drawer bottoms will be 1/4 inch MDF.

Various milled pieces...padauk blades, drawer fronts, rails and stiles,,,oak drawer runners....even some mahogany for rear runners...

Raised Panel Construction


I recently purchased, from Ameitech South, a Sommerfeld 3 piece raised panel router bit set.

It is the Shaker panel set.


The padauk rails and stiles were two inches wide, 3/4" thick...

The cope cutting router bit was set to a height that we had already tested...using a CTD piece of radiata pine.


The cope is only done on the end grains of the rails...a sacrificial push block minimizes spelching...the end were done in a couple of passes...all of these router cuts are made with the show side down.
Here is the coped end...dry fit into a CTD piece...easy to really see the joint...
All of the long grain inner edges were cut with the second bit...producing a 7/32 inch dado.
Testing the groove alignment with a CTD panel...
The third bit is the raised panel...22.5 degrees...cuts the front and rear profiles...this is a big chunk of metal...slowed it down and ran all edges in three passes. End grain was done first, then long grain, end grain and long grain.
Third pass...
Dry fit...looks good...had to take a little off the back of the raised panel to make it lower that stiles and rails...
Shaker raised panel glue up...
Both done...
...after pulled from clamps.
Top with Raised Panel Edging
Top panel was glued up...edge to edge with clamps and cauls...

Top panel blank out of the clamps...
Used a 25° raised panel bit to put a bevelled edge on the top piece.
Put a sacrificial fence on the router table and slowed down the RPMs due to the size of the bit.
A CTD was used to test out how the angles matched and how much of a shadow line...zeroed in on about 1/8 inch.


Carcase Joinery

Dry fit mock up of panels to get a overview of how the cabinet will look...


Front and rear rails will connect the panels to form the carcase of the cabinet.

The joint will be held with Domino mortise and floating tenon joinery and glued.

Here the rails and stiles are being laid out for the Dominos.

Using the shop-built Domino production jig the mortises for the floating 5 x 30mm Dominos were bored by referencing the body of the machine to the tabletop...the mortises were bored to be a tight fit.
Mortises in the end grain of the rails.
Then the mortises on the inside of the stiles of the side panels were bored...they were placed on the other working surface of the Domino production jig...the bottom plate of the machine was registered on the jig surface...the mortises were bored in the medium loose mode to make alignment easier.
A dry fit of the side panels and front and rear rails.
The backside of the cabinet will have a 1/2 Baltic birch plywood rear the router table we let in a 1/2 x 1/2 rabbet to accomodate that panel...the rails were through routed in a couple of passes...using an upspiral 1/2 inch bit.
The stiles had stopped rabbets...the board was put into the fence to make the stop...then after routingthe rabbet the router was turned off to form the stop at the other end...
Dry fit with a look to the rabbet...
The rabbet needed to be cleaned up a bit on the short rails...used the small LN shoulder plane to square it up...
Here the padauk upper rail is finished...used the bird's mouth batten...worked great...
On the stiles with the stopped rabbets, I used bench chisels and paring chisels to square up the ends.
The end grain, while chiseling, split out around the mortise...clamped it off to finish the chisel work.
I worked the split open so that I could put in some glue...
...glue squeeze out...
How the rear panel rabbett looked...
We planned to route the dadoes in the interior sides of the end panels on the MFT3 facilitate keeping the panels square to each other and to keep the backside of the dado from spelching, we put edge boards around the two panels...screwing them into the top and bottom of the panels.
In the middle of the two panels were the rabbets for the back plywood panel...we dropped a sacrificial board into the space to prevent spelching.

We then laid out all of the dadoes...carefully marking the center of the 1/2 inch dado because that is the how we line up the router.

The morning of the router work, James had a moment of clarity and realized that the top and bottom stopped dadoes would be let into the groove that holds the Shaker panel...we quickly redid the design and decided to just route for the four "BladeRunner" assemblies.

To accomodate the panels and the frame assembly, we had to relocate the Festool MFT3 fence...and then carefully square that fence up against the Qwas is the first pass with the router...using a 1/2 inch up spiral bit and cutting a 1/4 inch deep groove in one pass.
The last dado...
After pulling the panels from the temporary frame the front edges were put side by side to check how well the grooves lined up...they lined up pretty well...
The blades had all been machine planed to be a little each blade was then hand planed to fit its dado...
...a tight fit...
Dry run with blades and rails...
Checked for drawer opening heights with a 3-2-1 block...a tad tight on one opening...but each drawer front will be planed to fit.
The side runners will be oak...a test fit into the groove...

The BladeRunner assemblies are to be joined with glue and Domino mortise/floating tenon joints.

These will be 4mm x 20mm tenons.

The 1 1/2 inch wide material was marked at 3/4 inch.

A quick alignment and support setup was made at the MFT3 table for the mortises on the end of the runners and rear supports.

The end mortises were made tight.

The setup for the side mortises was done at the production jig. The side mortises were bored loose.
The setups were time consuming but once started the production went quite quickly. Here are all of the blades and runners.
A quick dry run to check alignments...all went well. The blades are padauk, the runners are oak, the rear supports are mahogany. The boards were all 1/2 inch thick.
Prepping to glue and clamp.
A clamped BladeRunner assembly. Main pressure was from the Blade to the Runner. An additional clamp kept the rear tight.
All four clamp ups...
Pulled from the clamps...ready for a little planing and sanding.
A quick look at fit...dry run...
All components are ready for the cabinet carcase glue-up.

The BladeRunner assemblies were secured to the workbench and worked with planes to make sure the runners were coplanar with the drawer blade to assure that drawer entry is smooth.

The padauk blades and oak runners were also sanded 80x, 150x, 220x and 400x for smoothness.


The glue-up began with the front and rear rails being attached. The left end panel was laid on the assembly table and the rails were connected with 5mm x 30mm Domino floating tenons.
Then the four BladeRunner assemblies were fitted...glue was used only in the outer rails of the panel. The rest of the assembly will float in the dado.
After all of the assemblies and rails were in, the right panel was glued and prepped to be placed on the top of the glue-up assembly.
All of the BR assemblies and the rails were carefully aligned and then the panel was tapped into place.
The entire carcass was then rotated to stand upright.
Clamps were applied to put pressure across the assembly from outer panel to outer panel.
Then the clamped up carcass was rotated onto a side while the glue set.
the carcass...

The bottom drawer runners had to be attached to glue blocks rather that have an assembly like the other four drawers.

The oak runner and the oak glue blocks were made to be coplanar at the front edge and have ample room at the back.

They were glued and nailed...18g, 1 1/4 inch brads.
The bottom oak runner...similar oak blocks with mahogany runners were placed above the top drawer to be the kicker.
Drawer fronts were originally milled at 3/4 the blanks were ripped and chopped, slightly fat...
...and then custom fit to each opening.
Drawer front height adjustments were made on the bench...the bird's mouth batten being ideal for this planing task.
LN 60 1/2 was the perfect block plane for the long grain...
End grain was trimmed at the shooting board, but for some reason, the LN 51 was struggling on the grain...went back to chop saw with final end grain touch ups done with a block plane...used a sacrificial backer board to hold down spelching.
Drawer fronts in the carcase...custom sizing...dry fit...
Finished Product


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